Living in Buenos Aires: Barrio by Barrio

San Telmo blue silver market

Turn a corner in Buenos Aires and you could arrive in a completely different neighbourhood, a different vibe, and different look. Cross Avenida del Libertador from plush Recoleta to Retiro train station and you’ll move from mansions and embassies to the hugger-mugger of street stalls, pastry sellers, cut-price asados and fake football shirts. Here is a guide to the main barrios (neighbourhoods) of Buenos Aires, each totally distinct…

February 26th, 2010

Pizza in Buenos Aires

Meat, meat, meat. There is no doubt that Argentina can do the Best Steak in the World ™ but there is one food that porteños adore almost as much as their beloved bovine: pizza. If you want to start a heated debate between two porteños (not tricky), either ask them to define Peronism, or ask them where to find the best pizza. It’s in their blood you see. The majority of Argentines claim Italian ancestry, significantly more than Spanish, which is why you’ll find fresh pasta outlets on every other block and pizzerias everywhere. But if you are looking for an authentic thin crust Roman pie, I’m afraid you are going to be disappointed. In Buenos Aires, pizzas are bready, smothered in an inch of cheese and loaded with toppings…

Confessions of a Fernet Branca Drinker – An Argentinean Love Story

Fernet Branca bottle label

The first time I tasted Fernet I hated it. I was young (and for legal reasons I will not say how old, just in case the alcohol police are reading) and just starting to go out with friends to “los Boliches” (discos) and bars around Mendoza, Argentina. That black bitter drink, strong as hell and sweetened with Coca Cola, was not my ideal dancing partner. Diluted lager beer served in a simple plastic tumbler was more agreeable with my inexperienced liver and empty pockets, until…

La Boca vs River Plate – Argentina’s Football Passion

The sky turns white with torn newspaper. The clattering of drums heightens. Machines blast out blue and yellow smoke. “Ole, ole, ole, ole” 40,000 of the world’s nosiest fans scream. They bounce – the shaking stadium is felt more than two miles away. Many have their shirts off in the heat and are swinging them around their heads. The horn section can be heard through the melee. And the fans continue singing: “Soy de Boca/cada dia te quiero mas”, I’m Boca/everyday I love you more. Boca Juniors have just appeared from the tunnel…