Buenos Aires can be a great place to run. In fact, I found such a great route that takes in Recoleta Cemetery, MALBA, the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes and the incredible Floralis Generica, plus plenty more. Welcome to our ‘Run BA Run’ trail…
Daniel Neilson is a freelance writer and photographer, and lived in Buenos Aires for five years eating too much meat, going hoarse at football games and thoroughly failing to learn a step of tango. He edited Time Out’s Buenos Aires guidebook and has contributed words and photos to a variety of publications about Argentina for Four Four Two, The Wire, CNN Traveller, Real Travel, Adventure Travel and the Observer among others. He now spends his days drinking imported mate and planning his return journey.
Flags swirl, banners fly, balloons reach high into the clear Buenos Aires sky. The communal voice of 50,000 of Argentina’s most fanatic fans overwhelm Boca Junior’s Bombonera stadium. Shirts are swung, songs screamed out. Frenzied fans let off fire crackers and fireworks. On the east stand drums beat and horns blast, while above them the outnumbered enemy, dressed in the red and white jerseys of River Plate, try their best to drown out the Boca crowd.
Selección Argentina are through to the final 16 with Messi back on form. “Dale! dale! DALE! Vamos Argentina! Yeeeaahhhhh!” Or, should I really say: “phew”. The good news is that we’re (that’s Argentina and all their supporters) through to the final 16. Great news for sure. But, let’s be honest, La Selección didn’t make it easy on themselves, despite having a particularly easy group.
So… will they, won’t they? They are, and always have been, one of the best football teams in the world. Of that no one has any doubt. They had Maradona as a player (good), they had Maradona as a manager (bad), and they have Messi. Messi! At the 2014 World Cup, what could possibly go wrong?
Let’s be honest. Part of the reason gauchos hold such fascination is because they look so damn cool. Driving to an estancia one day I saw two gauchos trotting alongside the country road lazily flicking up their leather whips and smiling briefly as we sped past. They are wearing traditional beret-like boinas and fastened around their midriffs we glimpse hefty knifes in silver sheaths.
Two weeks ago, I was walking towards London Bridge after work through Borough Market. People in the pubs spilled out on to the pavements to make the most of the warm air. I’d stopped in a pub on the way home with a couple of friends and we were in no hurry. Then I saw Porteña (tag line: Argentinian Street Food), and I was overwhelmed with memories (it doesn’t take a lot). We perched on one of the stools outside, ordered half a dozen empanadas (dos de carne, dos de pollo y dos de jamon y queso), a bottle of Malbec (Quilmes was on offer – obvio) and I was back in Buenos Aires…
The latest in our series of interactive guides turns its attention to football (it was only a matter of time). Here we look at an eclectic bunch of stadiums, restaurants and sights.
Naturally, the boundaries between street art and that in a gallery is blurred (this isn’t the place to get into a philosophical question about what ‘art’ is), but what we’ll do here is take a tour around Buenos Aires looking at the most interesting and innovative places to see art – whether in a gallery, museum, bar, or in the street. There are more than 50 independent galleries alone in the city – but like much of the hipster cultural life in the city during the last two decades, it’s Palermo where many of the cutting-edge galleries are based and, more traditionally, Recoleta where you’ll find fine art galleries and design shops…
From its beginnings as a riverside settlement, to its present day status as one of the world’s largest cities 400 years later, Buenos Aires has fit an awful lot in. It’s been wealthy and glorious, it’s been battered and broke. Its life, as scientist Jared Diamond would say, has ben shaped by guns, germs and steel. Yet such is the city’s short, intense life, most of the influential buildings are still here to be seen and explored, the museums add essential detail, while the tombs of the country’s great, good and downright dastardly can still be seen in the great city of the dead: Recoleta Cemetery.
Granted, any walking tour of eateries requires an impressive predilection for gluttony and a stomach the size of which would, frankly, be a physiological anomaly. The eyes, as the idiom would suggest, are bigger than the tummy – and that’s exactly what this walking tour is: a feast for the eyes from which you can pick from a smorgasbord (a veritable All-You-Can-Eat buffet – a tenedor libre) whatever gastronomic delight takes your fancy.