At first glance, an Argentina supermarket is like any other. Then you notice the whole aisle devoted to yerba mate, a vegetarian section that consists only of cardboard-like soya milanesas, and – as one blogger has noted – an astounding number of variations on tinned corn.
Since the year 2000, a classical music festival has taken place on the Mendoza Wine Route during each Easter week. Ten years later, the festival has become one of the area’s most popular musical events, performed in natural settings and at churches and wineries.
Late September in Buenos Aires – the jacaranda trees will be clothed in purple blossom, the football season will be in full swing and around 50,000 producers, traders and keen drinkers of Argentina wine will be converging on the La Rural exhibition centre for the city’s annual Feria Vinos y Bodegas (Wines and Wineries Fair).
Porteños need little encouragement to deem a day a holiday, set off fireworks or… drink champagne. Any excuse for a party, right? Well, in Buenos Aires you can quaff Chandon, dramatically exclaim ¡qué frío! (very local) and people-watch – all under the umbrella of ‘high-brow’ – by throwing in an art fix. This year is the 10th Anniversary of Gallery Nights – late night openings which fall on the last Friday of every month until November, organized by art magazine Arte al Dia, adn Cultura (La Nacion newspaper), and the Ministry of Culture of Buenos Aires.
Just after midnight, one drizzly Friday morning in the poor Buenos Aires neighbourhood of Abasto, I wandered through a rusty door. Inside the cavernous Club Atlético Fernandez Fierro, The Stooges’ ‘I Wanna Be Your Dog’ echoed, anti-globalist art was lit up under a roving mirror ball and students knocked back the cheap Italian liqueur fernet mixed with cola. It was clear this wasn’t the average stuffy tango hall
Apsley Cherry-Garrard, one of only three men to survive Robert Scott’s ill-fated 1910–12 expedition to the South Pole, penned the definitive book about Antarctica and called it “The Worst Journey in the World”. “Polar exploration,” he wrote, “is at once the cleanest and most isolated way of having a bad time which has been devised.” Since then, we’ve devised new and more terrifying ways of having ‘a bad time in isolation’ while making travel to Antarctica safe, sociable and fun – as I found out last year when I travelled to the ice continent aboard the Antarctic Dream, a Chilean cruise ship…
“When I first heard about Santi, I thought he was like all the other kids that play polo – rich, privileged and born with a silver spoon in his mouth,” says Nathaniel McCullogh, the English director of the recently released documentary film ‘The Polo Kid‘.
The film follows Santi as he tries to climb the ladder towards the pinnacle of a 10-goal handicap. It moves from Florida to Mexico and then to Argentina, the game’s spiritual home and birthplace of Santi’s polo-playing father to whom the film is dedicated. Miguel Torres was a professional player who emigrated to America in the 1980s and who died during filming…
Notwithstanding what happened recently in South Africa, there is one sport where Argentina dominates the world, and has done for over seventy years. Polo is a true national sport in the country and its popularity is second only to football. Championship matches in Argentina’s two biggest polo fields, in Palermo (in downtown Buenos Aires) and at the Hurlingham Club in the suburbs, attract huge crowds. During the season, games are televised almost daily…
There’s a distinct danger this post will turn into an ode* to Messi, but oh what a player! We’ve since learned that South Korean, Chu-young, who scored an own goal in the match, has an IQ of 150. But it was the footballing genius of Messi that led Argentina to a convincing 4-1 victory over South Korea. And he didn’t even score a goal. The honours were left to Higuaín, who scored the first hat-trick of the tournament. And in the list of Argentine players, I’d put him behind Di Maria and Tevez, perhaps even Heinze, in the man-of-the-match stakes. It demonstrates the attacking depth of Maradona’s team…
If ever there was the danger of a single man’s overbearing personality dominating a sports team, it is Diego Maradona’s over Argentina’s 2010 World Cup football team. Here is a deeply flawed man, exalted to god-like status in his home country (the Church of Maradona has more than 100,000 members), with the weight of 40 million Argentines on his shoulders. Since becoming coach, Maradona has presided over a lackluster qualifying performance (Argentina lost 6-1 to Bolivia, albeit at 4,000 metres) that saw his team barely scrape into to the World Cup finals, despite having a roster of players that reads like the finest who’s-who of the season…