EAT THE SEASONS

In Buenos Aires, it’s not hard to eat seasonally. If an ingredient isn’t in season, it’s not available. Or it’s really expensive. Or it probably tastes heinous. There’s nothing like a tomato in the summer with the flavor of an actual juicy tomato, a 10 peso creamy avocado in late spring, a deep orange roasted pumpkin in the fall, or a hearty root vegetable soup in the winter.

Here’s a trusty guide on to how to eat with the seasons in Argentina. All you need to do is find your verdulería, make friends with your produce dealer, and shop by the seasons, treating your body right with some Buenos Aires super food action.

Primavera / Spring (September-December):

For some, the beginning of spring means lush green leaves, buds sprouting, flowers in bloom, sunny blue skies, warm weather and all that jazz. For me, like most food obsessed freaks, the arrival of the warm weather means something food related. It’s the time of year where all the fruits and vegetables begin to pop up from the earth, and arrive with a beautiful vengeance in absolute freshness to a veggie shop near you!

This is what you should be eating in the springtime:

Acelga / Swiss chard Albahaca / Basil Alcaucil / Artichoke
Apio / Celery Arvejas / Pea Bok choy /
Endibia / Endive Espinaca / Spinach Espárrago / Asparagus
Haba / Fava bean Hongos / Mushrooms Lechugas / Lettuce
Nabo / Turnip Papa / Potato Perejil / Parsley
Puerro / Leek Radicchio Remolacha / Beet
Repollo / Cabbage Zapallito y Zucchini / Round squash and zucchini Ananá / Pineapple
Banana / Banana Cereza / Cherry Ciruela / Plum
Damasco / Apricot Durazno / Peach Frambuesa / Raspberry
Frutilla / Strawberry Kiwi Limón / Lemon
Naranja / Orange Palta / Avocado Plátano / Plantain
Pera / Pear Pomelo / Grapefruit Sandia / Watermelon
spring salad
Spring salad. Ph: Allie Lazar

Verano / Summer (December – March):

It really doesn’t matter that it’s sauna-style hot in most of the country, because there are great fruits to keep us hydrated and salads to keep us cool. This is the time of year when the verdulerías are in full force, especially summer fruits that are available in abundance. When you see that perfect red cherry or delicate zucchini flower, buy it! A lot of summer produce has a peak in ripeness and is only in season a few weeks out of the year.

Albahaca / Basil Ajo / Garlic Arvejas / Peas
Berenjena / Eggplant Calabaza / Pumpkin Chaucha / Green beans
Cilantro Choclo / Corn Echalotte / Shallot
Flor de zucchini / Zucchini flower Morrón (rojo, verde, amarillo) / Pepper (red, green, yellow) Okra
Papa / Potato Pepino / Cucumber Rabanito / Radish
Remolacha / Beet Verdeo / Green onion Zucchini y zapallito / zucchini and round squash
Ananá / Pineapple Arándano / Blueberry
Cereza / Cherry Ciruela / Plum Damasco / Apricot
Durazno / Peach Frambuesa / Raspberry Higo / Fig
Kiwi Limon / Lemon Mango
Manzana / Apple Maracuyá / Passionfruit Melón / Honeydew Melon, Canary melon
Mora / Blackberries Pelón / Nectarine Pera / Pear
Sandia / Watermelon Tomato Uva / Grape
summer4
Summer. Ph: Allie Lazar

Otoño / Fall (March – June):

Take your coat, scarves and boots out of the closet, and get your giant soup pot ready to provide warming nourishment. The leaves are changing colors, toño tones are in style, summer tans are fading, and roasted vegetables are just waiting to be devoured.

Achicoria / Chicory Ajo / Garlic Apio / Celery
Apio Nabo / Celeriac Batata / Sweet Potato Berenjena / Eggplant
Berro / Watercress Brócoli / Broccoli Cebolla / Onion
Coliflor / Cauliflower Espinaca / Spinach Hinojo / Fennel
Hongos / Mushrooms Lechuga / Lettuce Morron (verde, rojo, amarillo) / Pepper (green, red, yellow)
Papa / Potato Puerro / Leek Rabinito / Radish
Radicheta / Green leaf chicory Radicchio / Radicchio Repollo / Cabbage
Repollo de bruselas / Brussels sprouts Rúcula / Arugula Verdeo / Green onion
Zanahoria / Carrot Zapallo de anco / Buttnernut squash Zapallito / Round green squash
Zucchini / Zucchini Manzanas / Apples Membrillo / Quince
Naranja / Orange Palta / Avocado Papaya / Papaya
Pelon / Nectarine Pera / Pear Pomelo / Grapefruit
Fall3
Fall. Ph: Allie Lazar

Invierno / Winter (June-September)

Winter is here. The sky turns dark way too early, which means one important thing: hibernation. But before you go on lock down chilling with some Netflix and curling up next to an electric space heater (that will probably burst into flames at any moment), make yourself hearty soups and stews featuring your favorite root vegetables.

Winter pumpkin soup
Winter pumpkin soup. Ph: Allie Lazar
Acelga / Swiss chard Batata / Sweet potato Berenjena / Eggplant
Berro / Watercress Brócoli / Broccoli Calabaza / Pumpkin
Zapallo anco / Butternut squash Cabutia / Pumpkin Coliflor / Cauliflower
Espinaca / Spinach Hongos / Mushrooms Nabo / Turnip
Papa / Potato Puerro / Leek Radicheta / Green leaf chicory
Remolacha / Beet Repollo de bruselas / Brussels sprouts Zanahoria / Carrot
Zapallo / Squash Banana / Banana Frutilla / Strawberry
Lima / Lime Limon / Lemon Mandarina / Mandarin orange
Naranja / Orange Pera / Pear Pomelo / Grapefruit
Quinoto / Kumquats Kale

The Produce Guide: where to buy the best fruits and vegetables in Buenos Aires.

The city is filled with awesome vegetable shops. The best is to venture into your ‘hood and when you see some fine looking produce for a good price, become a regular. These are some of the verdulerías and mercados that sell the chronic:

  • My verdulero: Gascón 947, Almagro
  • El Triangulo: Borges y Charcas, Palermo Soho
  • La Visión: Cabildo 2998, Nuñez
  • Nelly: El Salvador 4495, Palermo
  • Pauly: Cordoba 2511, Recoleta
  • Irma: Luis Maria Campos 256, Las Cañitas
  • La Martina: Medrano 342, Almagro
  • Molina Frutas & Verduras: Federico Lacroze 3016, Colegiales
  • Ely: Sarmiento 4194, Almagro
  • Lo de Mary: Soldado de la Independencia 1189, Las Cañitas
  • Barrio Chino: Ichiban, Casa China, Asia Oriental, Tina & Co
summer5
Verdulería. Ph: Allie Lazar

The Markets

  • Mercado Boliviano de Liniers: José León Suárez 100, Liniers
  • Mercado de San Telmo: Bolivar y Carlos Calvo
  • Mercado Progreso: Rivadavia 5430, Caballito
  • Mercado Juramento: Juramento 2527, Belgrano
  • *El Galpón Organic Market: Federico Lacroze 4171, Chacarita
  • Ferias itinerantes de abastecimiento barrial
  • Mercado Central: Autopista Ricchieri y Boulogne Sur Mer
  • *Mercado Solidario Bonpland: Bonpland 1660, Palermo
mercado santelmo
Mercado de San Telmo. Ph: Allie Lazar

Produce Delivery Services

* = Organic

For a complete guide, check out the Food Shopping Guide on Pick up the fork.

And please tell us: where is your favorite Buenos Aires vegetable and fruit shop that keeps you happy?

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Allie Lazar

Allie Lazar

Allie is a freelance eater based out of Buenos Aires. An ex-vegetarian born and raised in Chicago, she was lured by the carnivorous spell of chorizo in 2006 and never turned back. She has managed to channel her unhealthy obsession for all things culinary and travel-related into something a bit more socially acceptable: writing about food, wine and travel. She is also known for her master utensil-using skills, covering the BA gastronomy scene on her blog Pick Up The Fork.


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